Pomme, a well-polished apple

Attention to detail and finely prepared French cuisine make Pomme in Gordonsville a culinary delight.

By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

Date published: 7/7/2005

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: Architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe wrote, "God is in the details," and in this respect, Pomme's decor is heavenly.

When I first looked around, I saw a single flower bud placed so artfully in its vase that its color and attitude reflected those in a Cezanne-esque painting 10 feet away. Archways of aged brick counterpointing walls of creamy pale saffron. Gardenlike green and yellow table linens and dishware. Here and there carefully placed objects d'art with an apple motif--appropriate because "pomme" is "apple" in French.

I thought I'd died and gone to Provence, and I was to discover that the attention to detail applies to far more than the decor.

He: Owner-chef Gerard Gasparini, wife Maryvonne, and son Guillaume opened the well-appointed restaurant in Gordonsville in January. Gerard's impressive credentials include up-through-the-ranks positions at a Paris hotel and a 16-year tenure at the prestigious Baltusrol Golf Club in New Jersey.

She: He even survived a stint at New York City's wildly popular Rainbow Room, for which he deserves a medal. In a sense, he did medal when he was named one of the top French chefs in the world by the Maitres Cuisiniers de France-- a jury of his peers.

He: We arrived at Pomme with a companion on a recent Wednesday evening to find many of the dozen-plus tables already taken, highlighting the potential importance of making reservations. Once seated near the recessed wine racks, where scores of bottles winked in the soft lighting, we found the menu pleasantly uncluttered, suggesting a kitchen that concentrates on singular excellence rather than unnecessary diversity.

She: The wine list also suggests thoughtful choice, and I started with one of the by-the-glass selections, a 2003 Jean-Baptiste Adam Tokay Pinot Gris ($9), an agreeable Alsatian import with subtle notes of citrus. Even more noteworthy was our companion's 2001 St. Francis cabernet ($10). The second glass, that is. The first had breathed to the extent of hyperventilation, and it was replaced in the time it takes to say, "Is it me, or does anyone else think something is off in this wine?"

The quickly supplied replacement folded rich oak into smooth plum, and had an even, satisfying finish.

POMME Address: 115 S. Main St., Gordonsville, near the Exchange Hotel Museum and across from the Bank of Virginia. Phone: 540/832-0130 Hours: Lunch: Tuesday through Saturday, noon-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday through Thursday, 6-8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6-9 p.m. Sunday brunch: 11 a.m.- 2:30 p.m. Closed on Monday. Reservations highly recommended. Prices: Appetizers and soups: $7- $11 Dinner entrees: $19-$30 Lunch sandwiches and entrees: less expensive; most dishes around $10 Desserts: $8 Full bar available, including wines by the glass and by the bottle, up to a $99 Champagne Veuve Clicquot. Atmosphere: Relaxed, leisurely and more friendly than formal. An excellent spot to impress a date or wine and dine clients in unstuffy yet elegant surroundings. Payment: Major credit cards accepted.

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Date published: 7/7/2005