Bridges brings New York to the 'Burg

Generous portions, effervescent service and a taste of New York make Bridges Brick Oven a must-try.

By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

Date published: 8/4/2005

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: The first time I went to Bridges Brick Oven, the service was so effervescent, the portions were so generous, and the insistence that I really must try the fresh tiramisu so unyielding that I wondered if I'd been busted.

Could there be photos of The Free Lance-Star's restaurant reviewers pasted on the walk-in freezer in the kitchen, with a "Be On the Lookout" notice? Would I have to return in my elderly Aunt Agatha disguise?

Nah. The paranoid delusional notion that I'd been recognized subsided when subsequent visits suggested that that's just the way the service and portions are at Bridges.

He: The Bridges in Central Park marks Staten Island native John Portelle's first eatery enterprise outside of his native New York, and touches of New York sophistication are evident in the Fredericksburg establishment, which opened last winter.

Stark, artsy, black-and-white photographs are interspersed with tasteful sconces upon caramel-colored walls of faux stucco and faux marble. Sinatra is in heavy rotation on the sound system.

She: In fact, "New York, New York" was playing when several of us met there on a recent weekend afternoon and settled into one of the dozen-plus square tables surrounded by simple ladderback chairs.

Despite the touches of sophistication in decor and audio, Bridges is extremely child-friendly. The ratio of highchair occupants to taller humans was about one to five on this visit.

He: I started with the large calamari appetizer ($11), and was presented with a heaping and hot platterful of gently fried squid rings. It combined nicely with the marinara served in a gravy boat alongside.

She: The smooth marinara also made a welcome appearance beside the "mozz-n-corrazza" appetizer ($6.50), which turned out to be like mozzarella sticks that aspire to run for office.

The four large triangles were crisp and golden brown on the outside and filled with an abundance of melted cheese. At only 50 cents more than Bridges' standard mozzarella sticks, they get my vote.

BRIDGES BRICK OVEN Address: 1291 Carl D. Silver Parkway, Fredericksburg (near Lowe's in Central Park) Phone: 540/786-5551 Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads: $1-$11 Panini, heroes, calzones and rolls: $4-$12 Pizzas: $6.50 (small)-$15 (large square), additional toppings extra Pasta dishes and entrees: $7-$18 Beer (imported and domestic) and wine (emphasis is more on type--chardonnay, etc.--than label) available. Takeout available, with a separate entrance for pickup. Atmosphere: Newish and whistle-clean, with upbeat service and unobtrusive decor. Can be a trifle noisy if both Sinatra and the wee ones are serenading at the same time. Small patio tables available in front for dining or time-outs. Wheelchair accessible and nonsmoking. Payment: Major credit cards accepted.

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Date published: 8/4/2005