French wines delight

August 17, 2005 1:06 am

VIVE La France. One of the most historic wine-making countries in the world is also one of the most diverse. From the Premier Crus of Bordeaux, which can often sell for a song, to the simple Vins de table, nowhere else gives us quite the range in terms of price, quality and variety.

Probably the most famous regions are Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. These regions undoubtedly produce some amazing wines. But some of the lesser-known regions also produce some fantastic wines. So let me tell you about my favorites.

I have a penchant for wines from the Alsace. An area that was fought over for years and went back and forth between German and French rule, they certainly know how to make the best Gewurztraminer in the world.

I've had some decent domestic Gewurz, but nobody can top the Alsace for their pungent, spicy, floral qualities. Possibly the only wine that can stand up against the spices of a Thai or Indian curry.

I am a big proponent of Alsatian wine. Grapes grown in this region include the aforementioned Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy) and Riesling. These are some of the overlooked treasures of a country so rich in viticultural history.

Interestingly, Alsatian wines are identified by their German-style tapered bottles.

Another very important but neglected region is the Loire.

Known principally for Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, this area makes some fantastic quality wines for a fraction of the cost of their more famous counterparts.

I love Vouvray. I could shout it from the rooftops. (If you see some crazy woman on a rooftop in Spotsylvania County, guess who it is?)

Made from Chenin Blanc, the yield can vary enormously. But on a hot summer night, Vouvray on the patio is a must.

One region I haven't mentioned is the Rhone.

Being such an important region, I'd be a slacker if I let it go without mention. The slopes of the southern Rhone boast the most famous appellation, Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

These wines are big, beefy and quite possibly the highest in alcohol content. The white Rhones are Marsanne, Rousanne and the wonderful Chardonnay alternative, Viognier.

I really also have to mention Tavel, a rose from the Rhone which is summer in a bottle. Strawberries and black pepper are key characteristics of this wine.

But all these wonderful regions and appellations aside, we really must not forget the vins de table and vins de pays (table and country wines, respectively). These are some of the greatest values to be found in French wine.

Whether they are using the wrong grape to claim a higher status, or maybe just outside the legal demarcation lines, these are definitely some of life's greatest treasures.

A Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne, or a Costieres de Nimes, will cost a fraction of the cost of some of the major Rhone appellations, based on nothing but simple geography.

I guess my message this week is simple.

Don't overlook the lesser-known areas. I'd hate to have to drink them all myself!

SUZANNE GRUMKO, a London native, has worked in the wine industry for 15 years, currently with Total Wine in Central Park. She lives in Spotsylvania County with her husband, John, and seven children. Her column appears twice monthly in the Food section. She can be reached by e-mail at hippydotmom@adelphia.net.