Eileen's at the Chimneys

Date published: 9/8/2005

By LINDA SALISBURY

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

Take a historic house in downtown Fredericksburg, add an outstanding bakery and cafe, and you have a breakfast and lunch experience that is hard to beat.

We visited Eileen's at The Chimneys on Caroline Street in Fredericksburg on a recommendation.

The restaurant has been open since March, and the new owners, Christopher and Trista Couser, appreciate the Georgian-style home built by Charles Yates in the late 1700s.

The wood floors, high ceilings and abundant light are a feast for the eyes. The cafe offers a feast of its own because everything is made on the premises.

Half of the large deli counter is devoted to pastries, of such variety, and so reasonably priced, that it is difficult to try just one. The other half of the deli features the sandwiches and salads.

Breakfast sandwiches and quiche ($3.70) also are available.

The sandwich fillings are outstanding, but what sets Eileen's at The Chimneys apart from other excellent sandwich eateries is that the bread is homemade, with loaves available for sale.

The sandwiches were displayed pre-made, some wrapped attractively in paper. One of the staff members recommended that instead of ordering the salad and sandwich separately, for $7.10 we could have a full sandwich and salad of our choice.

My Dining Partner selected roast beef on a baguette, with horseradish, red onions and lettuce. He was very pleased with all aspects of the sandwich, from the bread to the roast beef that was medium rare and not at all dry.

For his salad, he selected garlic-tomato, a colorful mix of tomatoes of various colors (from the Fredericksburg farmers market, we were told), little slices of Parmesan cheese, parsley, garlic and grape tomatoes in a delicate vinaigrette.

Had they been purchased separately, the sandwich would have cost $6.50 and a small salad $3.18, so the combo was a good deal, especially since the side salads were not skimpy.

I found the veggie sandwich irresistible ($5.25 if purchased separately). It was one of those cleverly wrapped in the case.

The poppy-seed whole-wheat bread was packed with hummus, sauteed mushrooms, grilled red onions and red peppers--a taste treat, and just the right size for my appetite. Even after unwrapping the sandwich, I still couldn't figure out how they had done it. Culinary origami!

EILEEN'S AT THE CHIMNEYS Address: 623 Caroline St., Fredericksburg Phone: 540/372-4030 Hours: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, 6:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Prices: Soups and salads--$3-$10 Sandwiches--$3.70-$6.50 Desserts--80 cents-$2.50 Small selection of beer and wine available. Atmosphere: This Colonial landmark at the corner of Charlotte and Caroline streets is a lovely setting for breakfast or lunch at any hour. The main eating area is light and airy, and the dessert case and bakery are only a few steps from the tables. Payment: Major credit cards accepted.

Date published: 9/8/2005