Elmwood at Sparks lights up flavors

Elmwood at Sparks lights up flavors

Date published: 5/18/2006

By NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER and STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

For THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: We were studying the two large chalkboard menus on the wall in Elmwood at Sparks when a new arrival loudly demanded of a server, "Is this the city of Orange?"

He: Tourist alert!

She: Forgive us our immoderate laughter. I give the server credit for refraining from responding, "Why, yes, this is the teeming metropolis of greater downtown Orange."

An hour later, having experienced new owner-chef Randy Cooper's cuisine, I wondered if sleepy Orange had, indeed, become urbane enough to rank as a city.

He: The venerable Sparks Building, as it is known, has housed a procession of sandwich and deli shops over the decades, and the new owner has created a look that is sunny, streamlined and herb-inspired. Sprigs of green appear on the covers at the 11 tables, and live herbs in traditional clay pots rest atop them. An eye-catching but simple lineup of more pots bearing rosemary, chive and nasturtium rest in brackets along one wall.

She: The rest of the wall decor represents a move both bold and humble: framed menus from other restaurants, some bearing the autograph of the chef. From this I inferred that Chef Cooper, whose previous experience includes the Prince Michel Vineyard, is generous when it comes to praising others' cookery while remaining self-confident about his own skills.

He: There's an eye for quiet detail and clean lines throughout, from the weighty, elegant silverware to the large white serving dishes to the spare but serious menu. Some selections are solidly on the menu, and others vary according to the chef's whim: a couple of daily soups, a handful of salads, a quiche or two, a half-dozen sandwiches and three entrees. Orders are placed and paid for at the counter at the back, then delivered to the diners' tables.

Bottled and fountain soft drinks are get-it-yourself at a station near the ordering counter, and I recommend the refreshing iced tea ($1.25), which is made on-site.

She: Simple decor, simple menu, simple ordering method and there, in our experience, the simplicity ended. Each of the dishes we tried was more complex than expected, and delightfully so.

ELMWOOD AT SPARKS Address: 124 W. Main St., Orange, across from the post office Phone: 540/672-0060 Hours: Lunch only, 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday Prices: Soups and salads: $4-$7 Sandwiches: $6.25-$6.75 Entrees: $11-$12 Sunday brunch dishes: $4.50-$12 Takeout and catering available. Atmosphere: Casual, in a small but airy setting, with pleasant service. Due to the open-kitchen floor plan and spare decor, it can be noisy. The quietest spots are near the front window. Nonsmoking, wheelchair accessible. Payment: Major credit cards accepted.

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Date published: 5/18/2006