Like most women on the island, she learned to make the amazing cakes as a young girl at her mother's side, taking care to make the cake layers thin and the icing sweet but not overpowering.

When the Maryland legislators sampled 450 slices of the cake this week, they were told that the cake dates back to the English who settled the island, who favored tortes of similar design.

The thing that makes the Maryland designation important for Smith Island is the fact that traditional fishing and crabbing is hurting there. Some 10 women on the island now make ends meet by selling the well-regarded Smith Island cakes, which can have up to 16 layers and cost $20 to $50.

I'm thrilled to learn that you can make connections with folks on the island and get one of the delights shipped to you.

Mine will be in the mail soon.

If Maryland legislators have any sense at all, by the time I take a bite I'll be eating the state's official dessert.

Rob Hedelt: 540/374-5415
Email: rhedelt@freelancestar.com