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'VERDE BIRDY': A WILD GREEN RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT HOME OF THE ANCIENTS: Northern Arizona's Tavasci Marsh, one element in the Verde River ecosystem, borders hilltop dwellings (circa A.D. 1,000) in Tuzigoot National Monument. The Sinagua people, farmers with a trade network spanning hundreds of miles, built a 110-room, three-story pueblo there. The site is 52 miles south of Flagstaff, and 90 miles north of Phoenix.

May 3, 2008 12:15 am

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Bob the Californian (in cowboy hat) shows other 6 a.m. birders Arizona's rich Tavasci Marsh. Tuzigoot National Monument is visible in the distance.

MOST OF the plants and creatures that live in the hot, dry lands of the Southwest are highly adapted to that severe climate. But a valley with a year-round river running through it presents an altogether different picture.

The small city of Cottonwood, Ariz., sits in just such a paradise, where a broad emerald ribbon traces the lovely Verde ("green") River as it winds its way south toward the searing Sonoran Desert and Phoenix.

Opposite Cottonwood on the east bank of the tree-lined river lies Dead Horse Ranch State Park, home to the popular Verde Valley Birding & Nature Festival, better known as the Verde Birdy.

If birds flock to this spot on the last weekend in April, so do birders, photographers and lovers of the outdoors.

Which explains why I set my alarm for 3:15 a.m. Sunday in Prescott to allow time to drive over the twisting, winding road that loops up and over Mingus Mountain, down through the funky former ghost town of Jerome and into the valley with the river running through it.

I had signed up for a 6 a.m. outing to a spot on the map called Tavasci Marsh. If the valley is a wildlife magnet, the marsh is its epicenter and I wasn't about to miss it. The trip leader was a Californian named Bob. With his big frame and bigger black cowboy hat, he could have stepped straight out of a Marlboro ad.

But this Bob is a professional birder (southwestbirders.com) who really knows his stuff. He assembled our group of 15 for the mile-long walk to the marsh, and no sooner had we gotten under way than Bob found birds everywhere. The guy had the eyes of a hawk.

In our four-hour outing, Cowboy Bob racked up 46 avian species plus swimming river otters, a pocket gopher and priceless commentary on assorted other wildlife. He even showed us a tiny Anna's hummingbird keeping its palm-size nest of eggs warm!

I've never been to one of these events when I didn't meet interesting people. Shivering in the cold as we watched the marsh awaken with the sun, I asked a man behind me where he was from. "Oh, I live in Sedona now," he said, "but I'm a native of Washington, D.C." His name was Al, and we had a good time talking about the Washington area, since he grew up there and I grew up in the same era, just across the river in Arlington.

I was lucky to get the Tavasci Marsh trip, as it was one of the festival's most popular events; only someone's last-minute cancellation got me in.

The festival opened on Thursday, when I had booked an unusual trip that capped a morning of birding with a stop at a local winery for a few pleasant libations. Good thing they didn't put the tasting ahead of the birds, or the five of us who signed up for that one might not have seen many birds.

As it was, trip leader David--another birding pro from California--took us through the grounds of a large state fish hatchery at Page Springs. This was the trip where I really pumped up my personal "life list" with previously unseen species such as the zone-tailed hawk, Abert's towhee, Cassin's and warbling vireos and many other unusual sightings.

Other highlights were two flaming orange Bullock's orioles, a nesting black-chinned hummer, a great blue heron dropping out of a treetop with a snake in its bill, a pair of common mergansers paddling in Oak Creek, and both an Audubon's warbler and a myrtle warbler--its Eastern counterpart--sharing a branch together!

Birding and nature festivals like the Verde Birdy have really caught on around the country. The first one I went to was the Virginia Birding and Wildlife Festival, held each year in September on the lower Eastern Shore. It takes advantage of the Shore's funneling effect as fall migrants follow the coastline southward.

Earlier this year, I visited friends vacationing in San Diego, who were timing their stay there so that one of them could take part in the big San Diego Bird Festival.

A few minutes on Google will produce dozens of birding and nature festivals like these, each taking advantage of a unique local confluence of geography and biology for participants to enjoy. The festivals parallel a meteoric rise in interest in birds and nature around the nation.

The Verde Birdy, now in its eighth year, was well organized and offered an unusually wide variety of events, field trips, workshops and outings. Truly, if you couldn't find something to light your fire at this one, you were hopeless.

There was, for example, the presentation by a woman who specializes in making lifelike bird calls. I missed it but listened the next day as others marveled at her rare talent. There were canoe-trip excursions, a trip to the Grand Canyon to spot condors (with lunch at El Tovar Lodge), botanical field trips, things for kids to do, small field trips into nearby mountains with gourmet lunch cooked in the field. And that's just a limited sampling from the festival booklet.

Sad to say, I signed up way late to take part in the Verde Birdy, so I was able to participate in only two field trips. Don't worry, I'm already thinking ahead to next April, when I hope to bring some friends along.

Paul Sullivan of Spotsylvania County, a former reporter with The Free Lance-Star, is a freelance writer. E-mail him at PBSullivan2@cs.com.





Copyright 2009 The Free Lance-Star Publishing Company.