Fresh look at fall favorite
Starting from scratch
Date published: 10/22/2008
BY EMILY BATTLE
If you are about to add canned pumpkin to your shopping list as you transition to an autumn-themed menu, you should know you're missing a chance to bring some real conversation-starters into your kitchen.
Can you really resist gourds with names like "Long Island cheese," "lumina," "red warty thing" and "one too many"?
That last one is so named because the red veins that cover its light-colored skin make it look like a bloodshot eyeball--what you get when you have one too many.
These are a few of the heirloom pumpkin varieties that Jo Miller and her family have been growing for the past five years on their Spotsylvania County farm.
The big orange pumpkins most of us carve into jack-o-lanterns are certainly edible, but they are not the best for cooking.
They're a little too stringy and watery, not "the thick, nice texture you're looking for," Miller said.
The tan, white, green, bluish and reddish-orange pumpkins the Millers grow have the denser flesh that is better for baked goods and other foods.
Photographer Suzanne Carr Rossi took a few varieties home and found the white "lumina" to be both the least watery and the sweetest.
In the outdoor teaching kitchen at her farm, Miller tries to make whole, fresh pumpkins a less-intimidating presence in the kitchen.
She distributes a handwritten sheet at her cooking classes outlining a method for making fresh pumpkin puree--the basic building block of most pumpkin recipes. It's a method she thinks anyone can fit into their routine.
Some cookbooks tell you to peel a pumpkin while it's still raw. This is difficult, labor-intensive and can be dangerous if you're not careful with your knife.
Others tell you to boil pumpkin. This leeches nutrients and flavor out of the fruit and into the water.
Miller's method calls for the pumpkin to be halved and then roasted cut-side down in an oven, until the soft flesh separates easily from the skin.
It's more work than putting can-opener to can, but the velvety, deep-colored puree you end up with is a lot more appetizing than the cylinder of orange goo you get from a can.
Prep your pumpkin Here is Jo Miller's method for making fresh pumpkin puree, boiled down to its most basic steps:
Wash the outside of the pumpkin thoroughly with soap and a scrub brush.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and leave only the bottom rack in the stove.
Cut the pumpkin in half, from the stem to the base.
Remove all seeds and stringy pulp from the cavity. Save the seeds to roast later.
Put both halves (or one at a time if the pumpkin is too big) cut-side down on a rimmed baking sheet. The rim is important because water may accumulate in the pan as the pumpkin bakes. Do not add any oil, butter or water to the pan.
Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour (depending on the size), or until a fork slides easily into the pumpkin.
Remove the pumpkin from the oven and let it cool for an hour or so. Then, peel the flesh away from the rind with your hands.
Put the pumpkin pulp in a blender, food processor or food mill and puree until smooth.
Put the puree into a colander lined with wet coffee filters or cheesecloth. Let puree drain overnight, or for about 12 hours. Some types of pumpkins have more water than others, but your baked goods will turn out much better if you remove as much water as you can.
Once the puree has drained, it's ready to use. You could use it as baby food (add a little formula if you want to thin it out) or add it to any number of recipes.
Because this product has no preservatives, it will keep in the refrigerator for only two to three days. If you don't plan to use the puree immediately, store it in freezer bags in 2-cup portions. These flatten nicely for the freezer.
For more on Miller Farms, visit millerfarmsmarket.com.
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PUMPKIN WAFFLES
Prep time: 15 to 20 minutes Makes 12 to 15 medium-sized waffles
2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger1/4 teaspoon salt 3 eggs, separated 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1 3/4 cups milk 1/2 cup vegetable oil 3/4 cup fresh pumpkin puree
Procedure: Combine flour, baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and salt in large mixing bowl and mix until well-blended. In another bowl, beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Set aside. In a separate bowl, mix egg yolks, milk, oil and pumpkin until well-combined. Add wet mixture to dry ingredients and mix until well-blended. Fold in the egg whites. Bake on a hot waffle iron.
Recipe from: Jo Miller, Miller Farms |
MILLER FAMILY PUMPKIN PUDDING
Prep time: 15 to 20 minutes Cooking time: 30 to 40 minutesMakes 12 to 15 servings
For pudding:4 cups fresh pumpkin puree 1 1/2 cups sugar 4 teaspoons vanilla4 eggs 1 cup half and half or heavy cream1 teaspoon salt
For topping:1 cup light brown sugar 1/3 cup flour 1/3 cup butter, softened 1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans 1/4 teaspoon salt
Cook's note: Miller said this makes a great addition to a Thanksgiving menu.
Procedure: Butter a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine pumpkin puree, sugar, vanilla, eggs, cream and salt, and pour mixture into buttered casserole. Mix topping ingredients until crumbly. Spread evenly over the pudding.
Bake uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes, or until set. Check with a knife.
Serve warm with freshly whipped cream. Sprinkle top with a few shavings of fresh nutmeg.
Recipe from: Jo Miller, Miller Farms |
PUMPKIN-CARROT MUFFINS
Prep time: 15 to 20 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes Makes 12 muffins
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour 1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 egg 1 cup fresh pumpkin puree 3/4 cup honey 2 tablespoons applesauce 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 cup shredded carrots
Cook's note: Miller calls these "trail-worthy" muffins because they're nutritious and they hold up well when packed in a knapsack.
Procedure: Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a standard muffin pan. In a large bowl, mix flour, pumpkin pie spice, baking soda and baking powder. In a medium bowl, whisk egg, pumpkin, honey, applesauce and oil until smooth. Add to the flour mixture and stir until combined. Do not over-mix. Fold in shredded carrots. Spoon mixture into muffin pan. Bake 25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.
Recipe from: Jo Miller, Miller Farms |
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Date published: 10/22/2008
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