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Which kind of milk should you drink? IS ORGANIC BETTER?

November 9, 2008 12:36 am

BY JANET MARSHALL

Is organic milk more healthful?

I've assumed it is, and felt a little sheepish when I've bought cheaper, conventional milk. But part of me has wondered: Is the organic appeal based on science and nutrition, or just good advertising?

Organic milk costs almost twice as much as conventional milk. For companies that sell both--such as Dean Foods, owner of the Horizon Organic brand--the difference is lucrative. For me, it's a stretch.

With the price of everything rising these days, and health concerns swirling in my head, it seemed like a good time to figure out what ought to be in my fridge.

A CASE FOR ORGANIC

Dr. Alan Greene, a Stanford University pediatrician who is the pediatric expert for WebMD, makes the case for buying organic milk in an essay--widely circulated on the Web--called "Seven Reasons Why Kids Should Drink Organic Milk."

In his essay, Greene wrote that organic milk is best because it comes from cows that aren't given growth hormones--as cows on some non-organic farms are--to increase milk production.

"Hormones are powerful," Greene wrote. "Even trace amounts can cause dramatic changes in living beings."

Greene also contends that organic milk is better because cows on organic farms aren't given antibiotics. Antibiotic use on farms, he wrote, contributes to the "growing problem of bacterial resistance."

The idea that conventional farming practices may jeopardize our health is scary, and the concerns make intuitive sense to many people.

But intuition and fear aren't science, and the price of milk matters to me. So, I did more research.

THINGS AREN'T SO CLEAR

A British study caught my eye. It showed that cows on some organic farms produce milk containing more heart-healthy omega-3 fats, according to multiple news reports.

But I wondered if the results could be replicated. The reports said organic milk from cows in Britain that grazed on fresh grass in the summer had more omega-3 fats. Would the same hold true in the winter months, or in the U.S.?

I also wondered whether the slender amount of omega-3 fats was worth the extra money.

I called Dr. Bob James, a Virginia Tech dairy science professor. He said milk from non-organic farms can have as many omega-3s as milk from organic farms. The amount depends on whether the cows are confined or out grazing.

"You can be a grazing dairy and not be organic," James said.

And apparently, a farm can be organic but not fully embrace organic farming practices. Organizations, including the pro-organic Cornucopia Institute, have noted that some farms whose products carry the "organic" label "skirt organic regulations."

The institute's dairy scorecard, at cornucopia.org, advises consumers on which brands of organic milk adhere best to the standards.

A CASE FOR CONVENTIONAL

From a health perspective, the central question is whether conventional milk is tainted by antibiotic, hormone or pesticide residues.

It's not, said James, the Virginia Tech professor, along with two registered dietitians I spoke with.

The National Dairy Council, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and dozens of agriculture professors also say conventional milk is free from contaminants and poses no threat to people's health.

"Milk is probably the most pure, wholesome, safe, highly regulated, inspected and most carefully handled food that any of us consume," wrote Dr. John Fetrow of the University of Minnesota and Dr. Terry Etherton of Penn State University, in an endorsed by dozens of professors around the country.

"For those who purchase expensive dairy products, please remember that the premium price paid does not change what is in the package," they wrote. "Only the prices are different."

The American Dietetic Association says there's no nutritional difference between organic and conventional products.

"Strict government standards ensure that regular milk is just as pure, safe and nutritious as organic milk," says the National Dairy Council.

FEARS, STUDIES, WORRIES

But for many shoppers I spoke with, concerns linger. They're left wondering whom to believe--the government and dairy industry, or the organic industry, with its focus on pure foods and humane treatment of animals?

"I struggled with this myself quite a bit," said Nancy Farrell, wellness dietitian for Spotsylvania County public schools.

Farrell has heard the theory--not proven--that conventional milk may affect kids' hormones, triggering early puberty. And she finds arguments that support organic farming appealing.

But she knows of no research that has proved regular milk to be unsafe. So, she sticks with more affordable conventional milk.

"Is the science out there waving a flag saying [organic milk] is a better option? I don't think it is," Farrell said.

Several local residents, though, told me they think conventional milk is contaminated, no matter what the government says. Several said they opt for organic milk because they believe organic farming practices are more humane.

One area resident said she has breast cancer that's particularly sensitive to hormones and buys organic milk to avoid the risk of adding more hormones to her body.

Jessa Lynch of Locust Grove, meanwhile, said she buys organic milk because of "vague" feelings that cows on organic farms are treated better and produce more healthful milk.

"I buy organic milk because it makes me feel better to do so," Lynch wrote in an e-mail. "This feeling may not arise from things like facts or informed decision-making, but it's there."

Organic milk is absolutely out of reach financially for many people. Dietitian Farrell's advice? Drink milk. Which kind is up to you, your worries and your budget.

Janet Marshall: 540/374-5527
Email: jmarshall@freelancestar.com