BY NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER AND STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

He: "Auld Lang Syne" is traditionally sung once a year at midnight on New Year's Eve. Those seeking that hypothetical cup o' kindness can find the real thing year-round at The Pub.

She: Its nondescript strip-mall exterior hides a snug, British-theme interior, and the floor plan provides two options: The entrance to the right leads to a rustic, inviting bar and dining area, and the one on the left leads to a relaxing dining room anchored by a large stone fireplace.

And you know a restaurant is comfortable with its cookery when wall-hung swords and halberds are readily available to the diners.

He: The selection of pints on draft is impressive and, fittingly, Black & Tans are available. A full bar is also on hand, and when I ordered an old-fashioned Old Fashioned on our recent visit, the bartender took enough interest in her mixology to travel from the bar to the dining room to check on the result. (Very good indeed.)

She: Although there is a British undercurrent in the decor and drafts, much of the menu is devoted to standard American fare, with an emphasis on burgers and fries.

Buffalo wings have the pole position on the appetizer page, and with good reason: A 1-pound order ($7.29) had plump, meaty wings bathed in--the server's wise recommendation--mild sauce.

A "Dragon's Breath" version is available for flame-retardant diners.

A rich, creamy base made the soup of the day, seafood bisque ($4.39), worthy of permanent placement on the menu.

He: In addition to lighter fare, full dinners are available, including a New York strip and spiced shrimp combo ($15.99). The server cheerfully bumped the called-for 6-ounce steak to a 12-ouncer for an additional $7.50, and the thick, medium-rare result was worth the fee.

The tender, sizable shrimp came with a buttery dipping sauce whose precise ingredients are unavailable, even to halberd-wielding diners. The chef knows how to keep a good secret.

She: The most British dish available is the fish and chips, available in two sizes ($7.99 and $9.49). The smaller offering was plenty generous, with two planks of beer-battered cod that were perfectly prepared: crisp on the outside and flaky on the inside.

The population of Shropshire could share the liberal serving of piping-hot fries that accompanied them.

He: Desserts are of the floats-and-shakes variety, and are mainly for the children. Most adults will likely polish off dinner with another pint.

Last thoughts: Satisfying fare in a welcoming environment.

She: An excellent spot to make acquaintances both auld and new in the coming year.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5430 with comments about today's review.