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Basil's Bistro: Delectable food, inviting atmosphere--this one's an overall gem in downtown Fredericksburg. Stop reading and go!
SUZANNE CARR ROSSI/THE FREE LANCE-STAR

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>> OLD TOWN EATERY SERVES QUALITY ITALIAN FARE

Basil's Bistro in downtown Fredericksburg is pasta perfection

Date published: 6/18/2009

BY NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER AND STEPHEN W. SYLVIA

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

She: Dine out enough and eventually you'll wind up with a side order of potential screenplay.

He: First, let's set the stage. The retro black-and-white tile floor and the clutch of no-nonsense wooden booths make it clear that Basil's Bistro has an appreciation for tradition. Small and somewhat clattery inside, it exudes an air of authentic neighborliness that extends to two tables on the front sidewalk and a scattering of tables in the hallway of the Galleria next door.

She: Act I, Scene I. The drinks arrive--a chilly Peroni ($4) and a glass (more accurately described as a generously poured goblet) of Franzia white zinfandel, the house selection ($5). A smiling server takes the food orders and delivers a basket of bakery-fresh slices of Italian bread.

He: Act I, Scene II. We wait.

She: Act I, Scene III. We wait some more. Three congenial servers are moving with easy grace, but aside from a passing pizza that looks lovely, the trays seem to contain drinks. Patrons are checking their watches.

He: Act II, Scene I. A server delivers our orders.

She: The delay is instantly forgotten with one bite of the outstanding balsamic beef salad ($7.95). Colorful and crisp mixed greens are overlaid with tender, thin-sliced rib roast, and ripe cherry tomato and garden-fresh cucumber slices create a portrait frame on the edges.

Chunks of feta cheese give a gentle kick, and the balsamic dressing is spot-on: tangy, silky and not overpowering.

He: Ziti marinara ($8) seems a humble dish, but in this cook's hands it is fit for a prince. The pasta is done to al dente perfection and the addition of mild Italian sausage and mushrooms ($2.25) rank this on the top of the Order Again list.

Bliss.

She: The final scene. We tuck into a rich, cocoa-topped tiramisu ($3.75) so light it nearly floats off the fork and discover, in conversation with our server, the back story.

He: The chef had abruptly quit. That was the owner, Chrissy Jones, who had rolled up her sleeves and produced magic out of her kitchen for a capacity crowd.

She: Anyone not impressed? Try throwing a dinner party for 30 and having the caterer not show up--and pulling it off. That's culinary heroism.

He: Last thoughts: Top-notch food and grace under pressure make an unbeatable combination. Budget-minded evening diners might opt for Whiner Wednesday, with deals on bottled wines and appetizers, or Flip For Your Dinner Tuesday, in which a coin toss can net free entrees.

She: I can't decide between "Iron Chef" or the Lifetime Network, but that resilient kitchen belongs on TV.

Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5430 with comments about today's review.


BASIL'S BISTRO

Address: 909 Caroline St., Fredericksburg Telephone: 540/899-5414 Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday Prices:

Soups, salads and appetizers: $5.25-$8.25

Pizzas, calzones, strombolis and subs: $7.25-$11.50

Pasta entrees : $8-$10.25

Desserts: $3.95

Children's menu: $4

Beer and wine available (glass $5-$7, bottle $18-$28, house carafe $15)

The scoop: Casual, cozy, interior can be somewhat noisy when busy, limited outdoor dining available, nonsmoking, some vegetarian selections available, wheelchair accessible, onstreet parking, major credit cards accepted.


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Date published: 6/18/2009


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