BY LINDA SALISBURY

FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR

For nine years the family-owned and family-friendly Mama's Pizza & Subs has dished up primarily Italian fare in Locust Grove (a second location is in Culpeper). My Dining Partner and I could understand its appeal. The staff is outgoing and helpful, prices are reasonable and quantities are large and there is a homemade quality to the sauces.

MDP and I stopped by for an early dinner and were impressed with how quickly the seats were filling with families, and that the take-out business was also brisk.

Although ordering is done at a counter in the adjacent room, we were greeted as we sat down in our booth by a cheerful server who gave us menus and made recommendations.

We decided we needed to sample a pizza, sides, entrees, and even dessert made for the restaurant.

Mama knows her pizzas! We ordered a medium house special pizza ($12.95), which was topped with pepperoni, sausage, ground beef, mushrooms, onions and black olives, and substitution of hot peppers for the ham. The crust and flavors were excellent--nothing overdone and not so coated with cheese that you couldn't taste the other ingredients.

For our sides we selected fried mushrooms ($4.95) and hot buffalo wings ($6.95). The temperature of each was piping hot and nicely fried. The wings had just enough "heat" to be flavorful without burning.

Mama knows her pasta dishes. Entrees are very affordable--all under $10--and large enough to share. MDP ordered eggplant Parmesan and was able to have Italian sausage added ($8.95). It was served with marinara sauce on thin spaghetti (which pleased him). The eggplant was thick and meaty and the sausage delectably sweet.

I ordered homemade lasagna ($9.50), which can best be described as a cheese-lover's delight. The pasta layers alternated with ground beef and a variety of cheeses, then it was swimming in melted cheeses and marinara sauce.

The entrees came with lovely bread with garlic butter, and fresh salads served with packaged dressings.

Mama knows how to cap off a meal. Yes, we managed to save room for dessert: baklava ($2.95) and tiramisu ($3.95). Both were good, with the latter light in texture and rich with flavor.

We'd return just to try the subs and hope that they are prepared with the same delicious rolls that were used for garlic bread.

Mama knows best.

Linda Salisbury is the author of the Bailey Fish books, an award-winning adventure series for kids.