THIS WEEK'S RESTAURANT REVIEW
>> NEW CHINA JADE AT COSNER'S CORNER HAS LOTS TO OFFER A VERY FARE DEAL AT CHINA JADE
BY NANCY DEARING ROSSBACHER AND STEPHEN W. SYLVIA
FOR THE FREE LANCE-STAR
She: A week from today, many of us will be giving thanks for the out-of-town guests who have descended upon our households for turkey and time-honored traditions. Quandary: What to do with those turkeyed-out hangers-on the day after?
One solution is the buffet at Cosner's Corner's new China Jade.
He: The restaurant is maid-just-left clean, and the decor is understated and unremarkable, save for the joyful, 1960s-flashback colors in the rest-rooms.
She: Diners can order from an ambitious menu that spans from Chinese to Thai, but the undecided will opt for the glistening, help-yourself groan-ing boards at the room's center.
We did, our companions did, and so did everyone else we saw there on a recent Saturday afternoon. The menus, while attractive, seemed almost superfluous.
He: The options are so numerous that it would be impossible to include them all in a single review, so what follows is a partial listing, along with some parenthetical commentary.
Soups included egg drop, wonton, tom yum koong (warming, with a bit of a spicy kick) and hot-and-sour (had the most personality).
Now is a good time to note that the spice dial is set to medium-low on most of the buffet offerings. Those looking for a bit more zing can help themselves to hot sauce, kimchee and other interest-add-ons.
She: Among the appetizers were egg rolls (the delightfully crunchy vegetarian version edged out the pork), spare ribs (passable), crab balls (pass), shrimp toast (uninspired) and steamed dumplings (two thumbs up).
The hands-down winner? Diminutive, tender, in-shell clams in a gentle black-bean sauce. They could have vied with a $9.95 starter in a far more expensive setting--and the entire buffet, dinner or weekend, comes to that figure.
He: Entrees included beef and broccoli (above average), flounder (tamely seasoned but flaky, and a favorite at our table), General Tso's chicken (highly recommended), sweet-and-sour pork (undistinctive) and chicken in yellow curry sauce (a thin but flavorful sauce, and don't miss out on the fork-tender potato chunks).
She: Desserts--for those who can make yet another trip for yet another plate--are abundant. Some were of the Jell-O-cube and canned-peaches school of sweets, but the fresh cantaloupe and honeydew melon were ripe perfection.
Of the layered cake squares, which can be likened to oversize petit fours, the homey spice was the leader.
The sugar-shrouded fried dough won praise all 'round.
He: Last thoughts: a clean and companionable setting offering a wealth of choices for a very affordable price.
She: It's the perfect response to turkey-and-houseguest glut.
Nancy Dearing Rossbacher and Stephen W. Sylvia publish a Civil War magazine together. She likes to cook. He likes to eat. To reach Rossbacher and Sylvia, e-mail them at editor@nstcivil war.com. Or call 540/374-5430 with comments about today's review.
| Address: 10151 Jefferson Davis Hwy., Fredericksburg, in Cosner's Corner Shopping Center
Phone: 540/891-7997
Hours: Weekdays 11 a.m.--10 p.m.; weekends 11:30 a.m.--11 p.m.; lunch buffet ends at 3 p.m., dinner buffet starts at 4 p.m.
Prices:
Lunch buffet, weekdays (closes 3 p.m.): adults $6.95, children $4.95
Dinner buffet, weekdays (opens 4 p.m.): adults $9.95, children $5.95
All-day weekend buffet, Sat.-Sun.: adults $9.95, children $6.95
Note on buffets: There is a premium for all-you-can-eat crab legs.
From-menu soups and appetizers: $1.38--$8.88
From-menu entrees: $4.88--$22.88
Full bar available.
The scoop: Comfortable and meticulously clean, pleasant service, some vegetarian selections available, nonsmoking, wheelchair accessible, noise level low, takeout available, ample onsite parking, Visa and MasterCard accepted. |
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